The headset:
Nowadays, one of the easiest things to fit is the headset…but also the hardest to get the right part for!
Always check with the frame manufacturer, which type of headset is needed.
In this case, the Sportive frame needs a headset with the following parameters:
- 1 1/8 inch diameter (you can also get 1.5 inch, and 1 inch)
- Threadless
- Completely hidden (you can get integrated or semi-integrated versions)
- 45×45 angles (instead of 36×36, 36×45)
This is probably complete gobble-do-gook to most people, but as long as you pay attention to these 4 parameters, you should be ok. I took the easiest option, and went with a headset recommended by the frame manufacturer. In this case, an “Alpina”. This is brand I’m familiar with, as the fit and bearings are good on our other bikes.
Step 1:
Fit the bottom race to the fork. This provides a “base” for the lower bearings to sit on. It should just slip on, but some steerer tubes need this part to be hammered down.
Fitting bottom race
Step 2:
Fit the bottom set of bearings. Likely the bearing sets are identical, so no need to worry which is which. It should just slide on.
Now with bearings
Step 3:
Fit the top bearings. As this is a hidden headset, it relies on the frame having pre-set races for the bearings. Again, this part should just slip in, with little or no pressure. If pressure is required, you might have the wrong type of bearings! (Double check whether 45×45, 36×45 or 36×36 is required).
The top bearings
Step 4:
Fit the pressure cap. This will ensure the steer tube is snugly fitted once it’s all tightened down. Again, no special tools needed here, it should just slip on snuggly.
Now with pressure ring
Step 5:
Insert the fork and previously-fitted bearings from the bottom of the head tube, and push through until the bottom set of bearings are “seated”.
Fitting it all together
Step 6:
Fit the weather cap. This usually has a tight fit, which conveniently will hold the whole assembly together for now, before we fully tighten it down. We need a stem to do this though, and will be one of the last things we do.
And that’s it for now!
All together
{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }
Interesting!
I thought from what I’d read before that you need to use a headset press to get a new headset aligned correctly?
Is this not the case, or is it only on bikes that have previously had a different headset fitted.
Thanks!
Dave
Hi Dave,
You tend to use a Headset press on the older style headsets – a press was used to press the bearing “cage” into the frame tubes, and the bearings were inserted into these “cages”.
Nowadays (the trend started properly about 5-6 years ago), the “integrated” style requires no press at all, since the bearing “cage” is built into the frame itself, and thus is aligned automatically. However, to confuse matters, you will find that a “semi-integrated” may – or may not – require a press into the frame; it comes down to the model and manufacturer in question. This is still infinitely easier than the old style, and you’re less likely to wreck a frame!
If you definitely must have the older style headset, you can replicate a press using four items – half of which you’re unlikely to have lying around, I suspect.
- A mallet and old, long screwdriver (to hammer out the old “cages”)
- A vice (to press both “cages” in with equal pressure)
- 2 blocks of hard wood, or steel. (one at either end of the headset to provide an even pressure surface for the “cages”).
The one disadvantage the modern setup hasn’t removed is the need to cut the steerer tube of the forks to the right length; it’s still the most nerve-wracking part of a bike build!
Hope this helps,
Euan
Wow – I’m impressed with the photos and detail you guys go into. What is the best place to buy these parts (not just the headset but also the frame etc) – on ebay ?
Hi Oliver – thanks for your comment and question.
The “sportive frame” is bought from Ribble Cycles: http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/bike-parts-Ribble-Sportive-Carbon-Road-Frame/RIBBFRAR905
The rest of our equipment we buy from either Ebay or Amazon, Wiggle or Chain Reaction Cycles, Evans Cycles. You should shop around to get the best deal possible, but you also have to weigh up delivery costs, customer service if something gone wrong and speed of delivery. We’ve always paid a little more to almost guarantee top notch speedy delivery service through Wiggle.
Hope that helps!
Rebecca
Hello.
Very much enjoy your site and appreciate the effort you must put in to it.
I am building a new bike from component form,the parts mainly sourced via the Chinese makers.
This is done purely for financial reasons, as per usual I have money (or lack of it ) problems.
However I am making progress.
Re. fitting the head set, the head set I have been supplied does not have a race under the bottom bearing,is this unusual ?
The bearing fits directly on to the fork,perhaps you could comment ?
Both sealed bearings.
Good luck with your cycle and hope it goes as well as it looks.
Best Regards
Yours
Doug.
P.S.
The fork,frame and head set all supplied by the same supplier and I am assured by them that this is how it should be ?
Incidentally I think you make a good point re. head set sizes as mine has a 1 and 1/8 ins.
top bearing and a 1 and 1/2 bottom bearing.
That sounds a very strange setup you have there – normally headsets are the same size, top and bottom!
re: The race – it’s not uncommon to get forks without at race on the bottom. Like ours above! Normally though, your headset will come with one. If you look at the 2nd picture above, mine is the silver one on the far right of the picture. You can see it fitted to my fork in the next picture. Do not be tempted to run without one, as it’s essential the bearings sit snugly on it.
re: Bearings fitting directly to the fork – I’ve never seen this done, but it might just be that the bottom race is built into the fork, allowing direct sitting of the bearings. When you drop the bearings onto it, is it a snug fit? Does it rattle around at all, once in position?
Euan.
Thank you for the reply.
From what I have been told tapered fork tubes are becoming “popular”.
As to if its a good idea or just a “new gimmick”, I definitely have no idea.
Yours
Doug.
Hello,again.
Euan and Rebecca,Isla
I forgot to add,what a lovely daughter you have.
You rightly look so delighted.
Yours
Doug.
Hi There,
I happened on to your website and am also impressed with it!
I have a question for you in setting up a fork. It’s a carbon fork with an aluminum steering tube. The headset is an Alpina, as pictured. My question is that there is no nut or receiver of any kind inside the steering tube to accept the bolt which holds down the stack at the top of the steering tube. I kind of feel like I’m missing something…
I’d appreciate any info you might have for me.
Jamie
Where is the washer from the first pic installed? I don’t see it mentioned either…